Monday, October 29, 2012

Who have we meet in the last few days

Canberra
John Tuckwell, Senior Advisor, EU delegation to Australia
Tony Mahar, GM, Policy Economics & Trade, NFF
Ben Parkin, Trade officer WTO & OECD, DAFF
Vanessa Goss, CEO Council of RIDC
Greg Field, GM Australian Institute Management

India
Marc Jackson, Director, Global Fruit Pty Ltd & Nuffield Scholar
Dr Baskar Reddy, Head, Agriculture, Food Processing & Water, FICCI
Sukhjit Singh Bhatti, Proprietor Bhatti Agritech
Hemendra Mathur, MD, SEAF India Investment
Dr Grayson Perry, Counsellor Commercial, Austrade
Anirban Deb, Business development Mgr, Austrade
Pawanjot Singh, Giani Seed Farm
Malwinder Singh, Syngenta
Rajvinder Pal Singh, Fish farmer
Mr Pangli, Farmer and PAU Ag Bureau
Kiren Gera, Asha



Qatar
Prof Ahmed Babikir, Chairmans advisor, Hassad Food
Andrew Goodman, GM, Global Investment, Hassad Foods
David Beatty,RM, Middle East, MLA
Annabelle Coppin, Nuffield Scholar
Blythe Calnan, MLA

Ukraine
Karin Fisher, Director Ukrainian Agricultural Club
Vlad Konovalchuk, Research Head, Bridges
Michael Swonson, Director, Atlantic Farms
Johan Boden, MD Operations, Green Team
Oleksandr Taranyshyn, MD
Dave Fulwood, Nuffield Scholar

France
Carmal Cahill, Trade & Ag Directorate, OECD
Hayden Montgomery, First Secretary Global Research Alliance, NZ Embassy
Alain Vendryes, Ingenieur Agronome
Thibaud Brocard, Owner Champagne Brocard Pierre
Michel Privard, Dorton Compost
Isabelle Rigollet, Safraniere du Bugey
Patrice Pobel, Masion de Brasseur, Nuffield Scholar
Daniel Martin, Chair French Irrigated Maize Assoc.



Geneva
Evan Rogerson, Director Agriculture & Commodities WTO
John Adank, Ambassador to WTO
Francois Riegert, Permanent delegate France, WTO
Isabelle Nuti, Counsellor Ag,Enviro,Sanitary & Phytosanitary Measures, WTO



USA
Dr Chris Parker, Minister - Counsellor (Ag), Embassy of Australia
Terry Meikle, First Secretary (Trade & Ag), NZ Embassy
Stephen Edwards, RM North America, MLA
Joe Schultz, Economist (Democrat staffer)
Tara Smith, Senior Professional,(Republican staffer)
Mike Dunlap, Director for Rural Development, Research, Biotechnology & Foreign Agriculture (Republican staffer)
David Salmonsen, Director Congressional Relations, American Farm Bureau
Ken Roberts, Director Modeleza International
Roger Wentzel, Assistant USTR for Agricultural Affairs, US Trade
Dr Anne Effland, Social Science Analyst, Market & Trade Division,USDA
Tres Bailey, Director Ag & Food, Walmart Stores Inc
Col Tom Vossler, Retried US Amry
Kay Hollabaugh, Partner Hollabaugh Bros
Sec Russell Redding, former PA Secretary for Ag
Gary Swan, Director, PA Farm Bureau
Sec George Greig, PA Secretary for Ag
Mathew Meals, PA Deputy Secretary for Ag
Amy Bradford, PennAg Industries
Brian Snyder, Director, PA Association for Sustainable Ag (PASA)
JD Dunbar, CEO, RULE, Penn State University
Frank Jurbala, Director, Penn Dept of Ag
Gary Smith, CEO, Chester County Economic Development Council
Monica Kline, Suri Alpaci
Brent Blauch, Limestone Springs trout farm
Wayne Lesher, Way-Har Farms, dairy & parlour
Chris Alonzo, President, Pietro Industries, mushrroms
Dave Hoffman, Partner Pardocx Vineyards
Maitreyi Roy, Director, Bartram's Garden & Eisenhower Fellow
Dr Joe Russo, Zedx
Hope Pjesky, Eisenhower Fellow
Jean Loney, Phizer Animal Health
Lela Reichart, Pensilvania Dept of Ag



Location:The World

USA Sites and Sounds

The following is collection of photos from our USA journey, enjoy.



Community garden program in Philadelphia at Bartrams Garden. 40 acres of heritage plants in the middle of a population of over 12 million.



Pensilvania produces over 60% of the US mushroom, working 364 days a year.



Limestone Springs trout farm, wiped out from floods last year and potentially is strife with cyclone Sandy next week.



Capitol Hill on lights tour of Washington.



Scholars on the road



Scholars visiting some locals.



Gettysburg, American Civil War, canvass painting depicting battle days 1-3 and weighing over 7 tonnes.




Some innovative wine packaging by local winery owned by 4 doctors?

Our GFP comes to a close, lessons learnt are many, friends made are for a life time, the travel bug has been feed and the opportunities are plenty. Hopefully over the past few weeks I have been able to share some of the amazing experiences I have been privileged to be present at and I look forward to the challenge of completing the scholarship program in the next 6 months.

Thank you fellow scholars Brenda, Shane, Mike, Sandra, Linda, Mark, Jemma, Rob and Ewan, friends for life.
Cheers Jim, Nicola and Chontell a fantastic program.
Thank you Wynns, GWRDC, Allen, Scott, Ben, Tristan, Jake, Rex, Trace, Nicole, Ben and the crew for holding the ship
To Suse, Georgie, Lucy, Jack, Mum, Joan and family, my sincere thank you for your support and help.
Non of these opportunities would have been possible with out all of your efforts. Thank you.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Passionate USA

Day 3 & 4
The line up of presenters continues to amaze me, be they past state senators or governors, trade officials, CEO of farm lobby groups or directors of business such as Walmart, where does it stop.

Tres Bailey (the third), Director Federal Government relations of Walmart gave us an insight as to how the globes second largest entity operates. Walmarts history stems from the rural regions of the USA, they turned over $419 billion in F11 from 9700 retail outlets across 27 countries and will celebrate their 50th year of operation, next year.
This business executes over 200 million transactions per week and utilises over 8000 trucks across the US to distribute their produce. To complete these deliveries Walmart spend close to $1 billion in fuel and are actively looking at ways to improve their environmental footprint. To achieve these business goals, Walmart are JV partners with Peterbuilt truck builders to develop a hybrid prime mover (diesel/electric), capable of reducing their fuel bill by 25%.

Walmart also consider sustainable agriculture commitments are important to business and are socially required in the global food market. They have identified 3 pillars of commitment;
Support Farmers & their communities
Produce more food with fewer resources & less waste
Source products in a sustainable manner
Under each pillar, on ground actions are identified to meet these objectives, eg;
9% of all produce to be sourced locally <50km radius of store
provide technical education to build healthier soils
source palm oil from sustainable sources
understand complete product life cycle = zero waste
consume only electricity from renewable sources (currently US largest solar power user).

Tres's commitment and passion for these ideals was amazing, even if we did get the sugar coated version, he still raised the bar in what businesses and individuals can do for the wider community.



Ken Roberts, Director International Business Relations, Mondelez (formally Kraft International), highlighted the power of NGO's and ensuring businesses engage and inform these groups of their strategies. Mondelez is actively sourcing opportunities in Latin America, India & China, but in doing so are aligning themselves with interested NGO's philosophies regarding locally sourcing primary goods, local employment, rain forest sustainable, human welfare issues and animal preservation. Kraft certainly believe these "leader" groups have a significant group of "followers" which will ultimately drive success of their business.
An interesting side note Ken mentioned was the dramatic drop in chewing gum sales during the GFC, this decline is attributed to the number of people with out work, as gum globally is chewed primarily at work. May be gum will be the next global wealth measure.

Kay Hollabaugh, partner of Hollabaugh Brothers Farm Market, outlined her strategy of keeping the consumer engaged and interested in their product. Kay spoke passionately about their eduction program and the role of the Farm Bureaus in nutrition awareness (500,000 children touched by their awareness program). Kays catch lines are "these hands feed you" and "educate the children and you educate the next shopper, parent & voter".



Location:Willow Valley Dr,Lancaster,United States

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Passionate USA

It has taken a couple of days to really understand the American physic and I think passionate is the best word to describe everything they do.

We have been exposed to such a vast array of speakers, presenters, individuals, and businesses and the one thing they all have in common is 'passion'

Day 1
Hope Pjesky (Eisenhower fellow) our American host for the next few days, she is passionate about farming, government and making sure our brief time Washington is full of activities and excitement. This you have achieved, well done and thank you.

Day 2
Introduction to Australia & New Zealand, Agricultural Delegates to Washington and MLA Regional Manager.

Chris Parker, Minister-Counsellor (Agriculture) attached to the Australian Embassy, was such a breath of fresh air and to hear an Australian talking knowledgeably about the woes of foreign trade with the globes largest economy, is the best introduction on how Washington worked. Born in WA (not far from jemma), relocated to Penola for 5 years (played golf with Doug Bowen)and studied with farmers from Clare, he immediately connected to three scholars.



Chris painted a picture for us of where Australia is positioned in the trade and cross governmental relationships with the USA. Some comments and thoughts from this meeting;
300 staff in the Aus embassy, 150 directly involved in strategic alliance concerns, 3 staff work on agriculture
Agriculture represents 3% of Aust GDP, agriculture is 2% of the US GDP (farm gate prices), BUT USA agriculture lobby group is considered one of the most powerful voices in middle America (6 million farmers with 1 voice), how do we compete?
2015 the Free Trade Alliance with USA will open up US beef markets to Australian beef, ideally suited to grinding cattle which our northern cousins may benefit.
Australian Trade negotiations are focused on arguing against the premise that Aust uses Sanitary & Phyto-sanitary (SPS) regulations to limit trade (Aust/NZ apple ruling classic example), enhancing the ANZUS alliance especially given Aust has allowed US soldiers to be based on our soils, removal of price support on sugar and milk, understanding the US food safety bill (is this a trade barrier??), building support and formulating positions of the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP) alliance.

The complexity of Chris's job is further blurred by the impact the WTO has on the USA regime and the conversations in play at any given time. The WTO assess any market adjustment tools in three ways, Green, Amber and Red. Green box actions include payments like environmental payments or direct land ownership payments, amber box subsidies are mechanisms like crop insurance (underwritten by the government) that assist famers in difficult seasonal conditions and red box subsidies are direct payments to famers for produce grown.
The WTO consider the US subsidies for milk & sugar to be red box and are challenging the US that the crop insurance schemes are also red box subsidies. This is a contentious issue especially given many US cereal growers have just harvested a severely drought affect crop and yet will have one of their better financial years on record. Is this not protectionism?
The US farmers will fight these views tooth and nail, good luck Chris.



To help the farmers manage these muddy waters, two significants factors exist, the US Farm Bill an the American Farm Bureau Federation.
The US Farm Bill, involves funding from the treasury to the tune of 1 trillion dollars over the next ten years for ag and non ag related programs. An interesting facet of the Farm Bill is that 80% of the program is directly tied to feeding the nation via 'food stamps' and the school nutrition program. Hence the question from an Australian view, "when the sovereign government is actively involved in buying food from the market and supporting farmers with crop protection, how can they say they are not subsidising agriculture?"

The American Farm Bureau is the lobbying vehicle for 6 million famers, 85% of the nations farmers, driven by "grass roots" concerns and a staff of over 300 people focused on influencing the American congress and assembly, no wonder they can preserve such an array of trading conditions.

Fascinating day, full of contradictions and insight, well worth the journey.

Location:Washington DC

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

France: Fascinating,Romantic,Awesome,Naughty,Cold,Exhilarating.

France has always been a beautiful country and having the opportunity to revisit it is really special, even more so with a group of farmers from Australia and New Zealand.



Our expedition started in the pearl of France, Paris. Unfortunately over cast weather hindered the view of the typical Paris scenes, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Des Champs Élysées, but did result in us scampering across the crazy round about known as Arc de Triomphe, great adrenaline rush.


Day 2
An early morning adventure on the tube resulted in us being 1 hour early for a meeting at the New Zealand high commission offices to discuss the ins and out of OECD (Organisation of Economic and Cooperative Development)

Carmel Cahill;Trade and Agricultural Directorate to OECD spent an engaging 2 hours detailing the history, principles and motives of the OECD.
34 member countries
Focus: to drive inter governmental improvement, across a range of briefs, for the member nations
How: by collaborating knowledge and sharing lessons on policy development across member nations, via working committees focused on interest sectors.

This body of nations has previously been seen as the developed world trying to 'mother' developing nations but the global power shift is occurring way from the traditional big two, EU & USA, to the BRIC group of countries: Brazil, Russia, India and China. The OECD work by measuring and understanding the primary economic drivers in nations, determining what level of subsidy exists and what impact that subsidy has on the global market. Once these are determined member states will debate strategies to influence and adjust nations they feel are overly subsidising their sectors.

The idea of 34 developed nations telling a collective of developing nations they can and can't provide subsidies, is pretty hypocritical, especially when the two most powerful nations have been subsidising their industries for years, but they try too. The OECD are proud they have lobbied the EU to de-couple the ag subsidies from production to land based/environmental levies and are now canvassing the BRIC group to do the same. Why should developing nations listen when nations such as the EU continue with supporting an uneven playing field.



Australia and New Zealand are small, but vocal, members of the OECD and have been lobbying hard for many years to free trade up, however somewhere in the translation of the policies 'free trade' has been redefined. Why are EU countries still paying a subsidy to their farmers, that provide an economic 'free kick' Australian and NZ farmers don't receive, yet preach to the developing world not to pay subsidies?

An interesting statistic debated around the room was the World Food Organisation (WFO) statement "world food prices have decreased every year since 2001" what will the global food market look like in 2025? who can tell.

Day 3
Ewan Rogerson, Director of Agriculture & Commodities WTO, chaired and convened a round table discussion in the World Trade Office, Geneva, on the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), Doha trade negotiations and WTO food security beliefs. I was amazed at how quickly 5 hours could pass discussing what I previously thought was a dry, macro economic debate well beyond my means.

The skills of the negotiators articulating their nations position on agricultural policy and trade was amazing and the patience required to achieve consensus amongst 157 nations is enormous, which highlights the bitter disappointment when Doha failed in 2008. Australia plays a pivotal roll in moulding positions amongst the Cairns Group and the BRIC group of nations and firmly believes the removal of export subsidies and reduction in import tariffs will benefit the Australian economy.


After an exhausting round of trade negotiations and further debate on the recent WTO ruling allowing Kiwi apples into Oz, bugger, we needed some more education on the finer points of French living, wine.

After a quick 2 hour sight seeing drive through the Marigneu provence, we arrived at Eric Angelot winery Bugey-maison-angelot, where we balanced up the general group conversations from maize, corn, wheat etc to wine!!



Eric and his family run a small 28ha estate focussing on a range of wines from sparkling pinot and chardonnay, altesse and gamay. He commented on the challenges of the French wine market and how to deal with a per capita consumption rate decline of 40%, mind you the French still drink 17 litres/head vs Aust at 9.9lt/hd. It was a great 3 hours with Eric and via Michel (our host) we were able to give all the group a quick lesson in viticulture, very satisfying. Eric felt his greatest viticultural innovation during the past decade was the withdrawal of insecticides from his spray program, well done.

Day 4
This day was a very balanced day with a maize grower farm visit in the morning, a long lunch in Pergouge (1000 year old medieval village) and then a beer brewery tour and tasting, not sure how life will be once we return to Aust, possibly somewhat harder than now.

Daniel Martins farm was a great example of vertical integration of a business and seeing opportunities and grabbing these with both hands. Daniel and his son crop over 500 hectares of maize, some irrigated from the Rhone River, provide a contract harvesting service, seed drying and finally seed storage. Both Daniel and Jerome spoke passionately about their farms and achievements and frankly about the pro's and con's of the CAP.


Pergouge is a beautiful ancient village, that is quintessential France, we had wonderful food, plenty of wine, great conversations in French and English and then walked the ancient streets to appreciate the awe of France. A rare day to be remembered for ever.



Patrice Pobel, French Scholar, had the difficult job of pouring a few beers, taking us through his brewery, giving us some understanding of his business journey and then pouring another few beers. Whilst it may seem we were just eating and drinking the entire day, the conversations between the 7 French scholars and 8 Aust/NZ scholars were all extremely educational, and can be summed up with the phrase, "we were introduced to some French farmers today and leave France with some French friends, who happen to be farmers and will remain friends for a life time."

Day 5
Compost turner



Michel Privard, our host, walked us through his business and the trials and tribulations of his career. Being the eldest of 7 children and unfortunately losing his father at 16, Michel has had battle or two during his farming life. Today Michel and his twin brother farm 60 cows that are shedded all year and are milked by a robotic milking plant, they built a 6000tn green waste compost facility that receives all the green waste from a 40km radius, commingles with their dairy waste and produces about 1500tn of high analysis soil conditioner that they spread onto their pastures @25tn/ha. Wow what a closed loop and an amazing way to make money from other peoples waste. From a 350k euro investment, paid back in 6 years, they now have access to an increasing volume of soil conditioner that will make the grass grow.

Just to round out the opportunities he has recently installed and contracted a 20 year deal for solar generated power, enabling him to sell at 0.61 euro/kw whist paying only 0.07 euro/kw to run his dairy, payback 6 years. Well done.



All these opportunities can make a man hungry and thirsty, so Michel invited us to a little sunday brunch, struth we wont need to eat for a week. To Michel and Dominique, thank you so much for a wonderful day, I hope we can show you the same hospitality some time soon.

Day 6
Another day of examples of where people have just grabbed the opportunity, built a need, and are now starting to make some money. Christine Robin-Drouillet got fed up paying for sick slips and losing too many so she built a 300 sow farrowing shed. With a reduced mortality rate, she now needed more hog space, ok lets build a 2000 head grower shed. With all these pigs and effluent, there must be an opportunity for a digester (bio gas), 480k euro later and a contract to sell power for 0.18 euro/kw whilst buying it for 0.7 euro/kw, we have a new digester.



Fed up paying to much for processed stock food, support a contractor who can do it when you want it, how you want it and half the price of purchased stock feed, brilliant. This truck is capable of mixing upto 6 tonnes of stock with a range of ingredients you have on hand.



Brisse chicken, the only GI recognised chicken in the globe, has grown so rapidly that local villages needed to develop a farm store.

With the local department (council) support, finances and guidance 25 farmers now have a farm shop specialising in local produce, expected turnover in 12 months 1million euro. Just a great can do attitude!



We will miss France, the friends we have found, opportunities discovered, meals and wine consumed, weight gained!! and above all the broken conversations experienced between farmers, cooks, cleaners, chaps at the bar, politicians, bar man/women etc. This is just a great country to visit, merci becou.







Location:Paris-Geneva-Perouges-Dorton-Bellignat

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

The Grand Bazzar

Turkey continues the tradition of over delivering in excitement and adventure from this trip. From guided tours through the Kapalicarsi (Grand Bazaar), Gallipoli and Anzc Cove, Yerebatian Cisterne, Hagia - Sophia Museum, Blue Mosque and roof top meals over looking the Marmara Sea, truly breath taking.



Grand Bazaar shopping is a sight to behold, 24 million shoppers per year visit here. Countless shops selling anything from spices, rugs, scarves, jackets, push bikes, you name you can buy it here. Not being a great shopper I was a little nervous, but soon got into the swing of the moment and found the bottom of my wallet very quickly.



Gallipoli was a very moving visit that saw us drive 4 hours to the peninsula and then an amazing history lesson for the next 5 hours, boy have we been taught a different perspective. Our Turkish guide was a fountain of knowledge who took the time to educate us on the Turkish views and thoughts as well as the Australian versions. The stories he recalled were heart retching and really made us question what was the point.



The strongest feeling I took from this journey was the fact the Turks consider the battle as a nine month gestation of 3 children in the womb of a horrible world war. At the end of the 9 months 3 nations were born Aus, NZ and Turkey and we will always be siblings. This is what drives such a strong brotherhood between the three nations.



The ingenuity and architectural intelligence of the Romans can be truly seen in the Yereatian Cisterne. To design and hide a labyrinth of under city rivers, storage dams and channels is something to behold. The fact is was only discovered in the late 1930's, says something about the cunningness of this era.



Hagia-Sophia Museum is an enormous monument to acknowledge the history of the religious influences over Turkey, during the past 1000 years. Having being used for christianity worship, then as a mosque, it has a wealth of hidden secrets that are only now being revelled. The solace that could be experienced is difficult to describe and knowing worship occurred so long ago, is very sobering.


The Blue Mosque represents the current Muslim faith of Turkey. Its beauty and design is breath taking, even with many thousands of worshipers a day visiting this temple, it still had a sense of peace and tranquility.



I am by know means religious, but there is something about visiting ancient temples, battle fields, under ground rivers and eternal flames commemorating the service of men half my age. What it is I don't know, but it gives you that goose bump feeling.



I have really enjoyed the educational aspects of Turkey and how it connects with Australia. The locals are so hospitable, friendly and more than ready for a haggle. I am pretty sure some one has had a win at my expense.

We head to France tomorrow, sad farewells from Turkey, another country I would love to visit some time soon.

Location:Ahmet Selehattin Sk,Fatih,Turkey

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Unbelievable Ukraine

Our Ukraine adventure has regrettably finished and time to consider the hardships, opportunities and resources can now be occur, without the influence of vodka.

Dave Fulwood, 2005 scholar, guided us through a maze of meetings, individuals, back roads, farms and culinary delights, that like the previous 2 countries will be remembered for a life time. Well done and thank you.

Some quick stats on Ukraine and comments on the agricultural situation.
45 million people reside in the Ukraine, over 24 regions.
They farm about 40 million hectares and experience a temperature range of minus 30 degrees C to plus 30 degrees C.



Fresh produce is plentiful with over 2 million hectares potentially irrigated via a network of channels built by the Russians.

Post independence from Russia, the state provided all rural settlers a parcel of land (1.2ha) to reflect their contribution to the states wealth. Today there are over 5 million farmers, with property sizes from 1.2Ha to enterprises farming over 500,000Ha.

The average salary is $3-400 USD per annum and many consider that life under Russian rule was more settled and safer than currently.



The extremes in Ukraine occur across all aspects of the country.
Land values range from $300 /ha usd to $3300 /ha usd
Rent $20-60/ha usd
Yields 5t/ha wheat, 8t/ha corn, 110t/ha carrots, milk 12 lt/day/hd
Land ownership forbidden to foreigners, to farm 10,000ha Atlantic Farms has 3800 rental agreements.
Modern gear and not so modern.






70% of fresh produce is sold in the markets or from the street, yet 'Green Team' can see opportunities and have built a 50,000 tonne chilled storage facility, truly visionary.





Kiazen (CI) has been discovered in the Ukraine, this management tool has spread wide and far, even if we cant read the learnings.



The adventure we have had in the Ukraine can only be described as unforgettable, be it the tradition of toasting with vodka, beef stroganoff, cabbage soup, cold showers, chaotic drivers, Marsha our translator, the rich and poor, scenery, expanse of arable land, bribes, Chernobyl and Shane Fitzgerald (irish) who left our group at the airport. Ooo Roo Paddy we enjoyed your company,laughter and signing, never to be forgotten.






We have a few days in Turkey to recoup and refocus, which will no doubt fire us up for the down hill leg of the GFP, namely France and USA.

Keep it touch, post a comment, and stay well.

Location:Kakhovka

Monday, October 1, 2012

Ukraine and its glory

We have had three days now in the Ukraine, a former state of the USSR, which regrettably is internationally famous for Chernobyl and favourably known for the beauty of Kiev.

Our tour of Chernobyl was a day well spent understanding how close the northern hemisphere came to a catastrophe and how human spirit can rise above any disaster. Some of the interesting facts around this nuclear melt down.



Over 340 "official" casualties attributed to the radiation leak
200,000 people displaced from their villages within a 30 km radius
500,000 people fought the Chernobyl War.
1000 school buses shifted 50000 people from the neighbouring village in 24 hours
Pryp'yat which housed the workers of the power plant was not evacuated for over two days, they were only 10 km from the reactor.



When the Pryp'yat residents left they walked out with what they could carry only
The concrete cap 1500 tonnes, is now beginning to break up, which may release radiation again. The EU and World Bank are funding a 1 billion USD structure to recover the reactor, needs to be finished within 5 years otherwise we are in strife.

A very sobering walk through a very desolate part of the world.






Kiev on the other hand is a beautiful city, designed to accommodate a growing population, within Ukraine's 40 million residents. Very typical of the Russian influence, big wide streets, grand churches and statues and poorly maintained hotels and infrastructure. The tube is nothing like I have seen or heard before, very noisy and complicated given all the signs are in Russian or Ukraine,no English.




We are driving our selves south in the next few days, finishing up in Odessa. Looking forward to getting our head around traffic rules and navigation.